Hiking in Arjeplog

Arjeplog claims to have an archipelago in the middle of the mountains. They also decided that it should never be impossible to reach the highest mountain. Even if it might be difficult to spell the name of the mountain in question sometimes.

Imagine waking up in Arjeplog on a summer morning. In the middle of what they call an archipelago near the mountains. Outside the hotel, Lake Hornavan glistens and in the west mountains rise above the water. It’s adorable, and it’s attractive.

Day 1. We helicopter from Adolfström along the Yraft delta along Laisälven, above the Bäverholmen Inn between the mountains of Tjäksa and Svaipa until we reach Luspasjávrrie.

It’s a day just like when you were child, waking up with only one idea in your head: ”So what do I do today?”

That’s exactly how we, a group of girls and friends, feel this morning.

There are three rivers and 8,727 lakes in Arjeplog. Among them Sweden’s deepest lake Hornavan. So there’s an awful lot of water. Actually, there are more than two lakes per person in Arjeplog. There is a tremendous amount of water in Arjeplog.

In fact, every citizen could have two lakes or more to himself, and that’s; simply put, why they refer to it as a ‘mountain archipelago’.

Day 2. We get picked up by the helicopter again, and then dropped of on the Tjäksa summit. From where we slowly walk down to the Inn at Bäverholmen.

If you could see Arjeplog from a bird’s perspective, you’d be able to confirm it. But since you’re no bird, only a human and bound to the ground, you have to walk up a high mountain to get the view. Or you rent a helicopter.

We are going up the Tjäcksa mountain, not difficult to spell – or reach! In Adolfström we take the helicopter to help.

Tjäcksa is 1,092 metres above sea level. On the top of the mountain, we enjoy a freshly brewed cup of coffee and make an easy brunch over the open fire. The view is magnificent.

We have the River Laisan and its watershed valley below us. In the north, we can see Sulitelma, and we know the presence of Salajäkna. Salajekna is Sweden’s largest glacier – a true watershed.

The water runs west towards the Atlantic on the Norwegian side, north it runs into the Laponia World Heritage and in the south-east down into the Pite River system. The clear water glistering in the sun.

In the mountains the water always run clear and cold. For lunch we fry the local dish ”palt” that we brought with us.

After a while, it’s high time to begin the light hike down towards the valley, towards the Bäverholmen Inn where we’ve ordered dinner. The walk down Tjäcksa isn’t that strenuous, but it gives a good appetite, and it’s a nice feeling to sit down at a prepared table at the Inn.

Learn more

These are the places the girls stayed at, check out the links for more info.

It’s a quite educated guess that the Arctic char served hot from the frying pan, is locally produced. It’s impossible not to like this place – an Inn in the middle of a landscape with absolutely no roads. Just a trail for hikers.

Tomorrow we are supposed to take a boat transfer out. But that is tomorrow. Right now, the hostess at the Inn tells us our sauna is hot and ready.

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