My relationship with Kebnekaise was established long before I saw her in real life. I’m a bit uncertain as to whether it’s right to assign a gender to a mountain or not. But the Kebnekaise I first got to know was a woman, that’s for sure.

The background to this story is that my mum once told me and my four-year-younger brother about the highest mountain in Sweden. Because my little brother Erik didn’t quite understand everything back then, he got the impression that it was a mighty, slightly wicked, character called ‘Kebnekajsa’. A brother’s worry was of course a great weapon for a mocking older brother. I could just mention Kebnekajsa and torment my innocent little brother out of brotherly love.

But Erik was the one who first got to meet ‘Kebnekajsa’ in real life – during a trek to the summit that he managed twice as fast as the one I would do myself, later. Naturally the only reason for this was the fact that I visited Kebnekaise during spring winter and he was there in summer. Another important thing to point out is that I also had to carry lots of camera equipment when I was there and he didn’t.

Speaking of my own visit to the highest mountain in Sweden, it took place in the middle of April 2013. My childhood friend Jonas Gustafsson and I travelled by car from Piteå up to the end of the road at the tourist station in Nikkaluokta. This trip took five hours and the best part was near the end of it, in the shape of a definite change in the landscape as the surrounding mountains started to pile up higher and higher against the sky. The atmosphere started feeling like adventure and we got more and more curious as we approached our destination.

Nikkaluokta is situated 60 km west of Kiruna. It is the logistic centre for visitors on their way to Kebnekaise, and our first stop on the trip towards Sweden’s highest peak.
In the sleds, the warm blankets offer comfort. During the 19 km journey between Nikkaluokta and Kebnekaise Mountain Station, the nature transforms from hilly to dramatic peaks.
Almost at the end of a valley, surrounded by breath-taking mountainsides and views, is the legendary mountain station. An oasis of high-class comfort and service in the middle of nowhere.
After a good night sleep it is time. A look out the window informs us of the weather conditions. We know and respect the fact that in the mountains you need to be prepared for quick, and sometimes unexpected, weather changes.
Charged up on porridge in the restaurant we get dressed and get our gear together. Once on our skis we meet our mountain guide Claes-Jörgen Pohl from Bearfoot North who will escort us up to 2102 meters above sea level.
Once we begin moving up the hillside, we start breaking a sweat. A short rest to peel off a couple of layers of clothes and a drink of water is needed.

We have always been quite active outdoor people, my friend Jonas above all, and this is why I’m slightly reluctant to write about our journey between Nikkaluokta and Kebnekaise mountain station… because it was undertaken on snowmobiles. The trip was very nice indeed, and comfortable, in the custom-made sleds that could seat up to six people and their bags. But it’s the loss of prestige in taking the easy road rather than going on skis that bugs me now, after the fact. So I will once again blame all the camera equipment I had brought.

As for the mountain station I didn’t really know what to expect. My strategy normally is to keep expectations low and perhaps end up surprised; guard myself against any disappointment. But Kebnekaise mountain station was no disappointment. I’m always fascinated by any larger complex located in very remote and unexpected places. The mountain station was bigger than expected, but had kept the right atmosphere and the standard was good.

Once we’d arrived we met two familiar faces from Piteå. One was the mountain guide Clas-Jörgen Pohl and the other Mikael Lundberg, who used to be a professional cyclist. After checking in and installing ourselves in the cozy rooms, a stone’s throw from the main building, we went looking for the restaurant.

And finally there we were: in the yard outside the station, making a first push on the poles on our journey towards the Roof of Sweden.

Like most other people and living beings, I like food. Perhaps I’m a bit of a food nerd. The White Guide logos by the entrance to the restaurant at the mountain station told us that we had a food-related experience coming up. And a couple of hours later it was in our stomachs. An interesting and ambitious three-course dinner where a carrot soup served as starter is the detail that first springs to mind, afterwards.

After a good – but as usual a bit too short – night’s sleep the calendar now indicated ‘D-Day’. To be absolutely honest I could sense some butterflies in my stomach thinking about the unknown: would the weather play along all the way to the summit? How much hard work would it actually take? And above all: would I make it?

The previous night we’d been sat in the lobby at the mountain station and there we got talking to yet another two guys from Piteå. This happens a lot with people from the city in question. Since these gentlemen had the same ambitions as us with their trip to Kebnekaise, we decided to team up.

And finally there we were: in the yard outside the station, making a first push on the poles on our journey towards the Roof of Sweden. The weather couldn’t have been better. It was a glorious spring morning with good conditions for alpine skiing. We chose the so called ‘West Track’ rather than the East, which might be shorter but harder going. The first stretch we traversed towards the very picturesque mountain Tolpagorni. It’s a steep mountain, 1,662 metres high and with a very characteristic crater on top. In my world a mountain like Tolpagorni is emblematic for the alpine region.

When the hike starts to get steeper, we trade our skis for crampons. An amazing piece of equipment when the surface is slippery and sloping.
Along the western path there is one obstacle to overcome before the actual climb of Kebnekaise begins. That is the mountain named Vierramvare, 1711 meters above sea level.
As we reach the top of Vierramvare, the fog has become thick. Limited sight makes us more cautions and we put our trust in our compass.
Even though we are weary and our current location is perhaps Sweden’s most boring valley, Coffe Valley, the mood in the group is marvellous.
The fog has lifted, and we make visual contact with the sun once again. The further we get to the clouds in the sky, the more amazing views catch our eyes.

Get started

Kebnekaise, Giebmegáisi, is Sweden’s highest mountain; the south peak reaches 2102 meters above sea level. Despite its location in the wild, just at the foot of the mountain there is a Kebnekaise Mountain Station that has offered visitors refuge and rest for more than a century. And not only are comfortable beds and a hot meal on offer – there is even a bakery located in one of the buildings. The perfect starting point for a mountaineering excursion. The road ends in Nikkaluokta, 19 km from Kebnekaise, and the last bit is travelled by foot or skis if you’re up for it. If you want to save your energy there is also other means of transportation such as snowmobile in the winter and helicopter in the summer.

One tricky thing in mountain terrain is judging distances. What looks like a couple of football pitches is in actual fact several kilometres. This became really obvious as we travelled from the mountain station up the so-called ‘Cauldron Valley’, which took a lot longer than I had expected. Here it got steeper and the extra wide climbing skins I’d bought combined with my lack of experience of this kind of skiing proved to be a mix that made itself known, and felt. Another detail that made it difficult was that temperatures were rising and what started out as powder snow was now sticking to the skis.

As the terrain got steeper and steeper, my heart was beating faster and faster and this meant a very wet base layer. It felt like I had a lump of cement fastened to each leg as I tried to keep up with the rest of the group. The feeling was worrying, seeing how this was just a short, and early, part of the trip.

Once we reached the first glacier it was finally time to leave the skis behind, heavy with snow, and change into crampons. They are a kind of metal frame with spikes underneath that you fasten to your boots or ski boots. It was the first time I used crampons and it was a positive experience to feel how well they worked, ascending the steep, snow-clad track up the mountain Vierramvare.

After an hour or so walking with crampons in steep terrain we reached the summit of Vierramvare.

The weather that had so far consisted of sun and blue skies had suddenly changed to wind and fog. We all appreciate different things and I belong to those who think that this was an interesting turn of events. Everyone got more focused and we had to produce a GPS to make sure we didn’t veer off course. This is even more important when you’re in an area with lots of steep drops and cornices.

Once we got past the summit the terrain descended towards the so-called ‘Coffee Valley’, which was also our last stop before the final ascent towards the summit. As far as I’m told, it’s in Coffee Valley many decide whether they push on, or turn back. The later alternative would have been a disappointment considering all the hard work we’d already done. And also, if that had been the decision we made, I wouldn’t have been able to finish this story.

At least the weather gods were with us and after we’d stopped for some well-needed nourishment the clouds broke. We could finally start our final ascent to the summit.

The vertical metres we’d finished that morning started to make themselves felt as we travelled steeply up the southern slope of Kebnekaise. Our water bottles were empty and we had to stop every now and then to eat snow – something I’ve been told since I was a child not to do, to avoid the risk of tapeworm and other things. But necessity knows no law and if you’re thirsty, you’re thirsty. It proved to be absolutely safe.

The place that I had been thinking about and fantasied about at times since I was a child was suddenly in view, right in front of my eyes.

Our curiosity rose as we approached the summit, and I got more and more eager to see it: the highest point in Sweden. On the way up we came across another interesting feature. We found the highest outdoor toilet in Sweden by one of the summit cabins. And it wasn’t really the outdoor toilet per se that was interesting, it was more the state of it. To put it simply: someone who really needed it had to begin the visit to the highest toilet in the country by shovelling snow for half an hour. Because the door had been left open and it was absolutely packed full of snow.

And then, finally, it came and went: the final ridge. The place that I had been thinking about and fantasied about at times since I was a child was suddenly in view, right in front of my eyes. The most fascinating thing about that sight was that it was actually a proper peak. A kind of large and pointed pile of snow right there on top of the mountain.

The final hundred meters felt like nothing and you could sense the group’s emerging joy. When the final climb was behind us and we found ourselves on the South Summit itself there was cheering and the obligatory high fives. The weather was absolutely amazing with clear-blue skies and a view that stretched as far as the eye could see in all directions.

We’d made it! And somewhere inside a niggling feeling of being stressed, that you had to experience as much as possible now that you were there. On top of Sweden.

Sweden’s highest located outdoor toilet is placed at one of the two top cabins on the south face of Kebnekaise.
The peak is in sight. After many hours hard work with aching feet and sore limbs, we are faced with the glacier that is Sweden’s highest point.
We make a last effort and an enormous sense of accomplishment is spreading through our bodies.
We made it to the top! All the panting and grunting the last hours have been worth the effort. From up here, an area equivalent to 1/11 of Sweden’s surface is visible in clear weather.
On the way down we treat ourselves to a longer pause at the newer of the two top cabins.
A weary, yet very satsified gang enjoying a meal at the mountain station.

Looking northeast there was the so-called ‘Dragon’s Back’. That ridge leads to the lower Kebnekaise summit: the North Summit. One thing we couldn’t help thinking about as we followed the narrow ridge with steep edges on both sides with our eyes was of course the plane crash that had happened there a year ago. You can’t really imagine what kind of crash it would have been when the Norwegian Hercules aeroplane went straight into the side of the mountain – right in between the highest mountains in Sweden.

Once our efforts had been immortalised, and once we’d taken on as many impressions and feelings from this visit to the summit we possible could, it was time to start the long journey back. When we went past the previously mentioned summit cabin we had a final break for food and drink. We also melted snow on a gas-stove to fill our water bottles.

On our way up from Coffee Valley, once again over the Vierramvare mountain, my friend Jonas and I did a trade that taught me an important lesson. When we changed from skis to crampons earlier that day I had lent Jonas my poles because one of his had broken as we travelled up the first glacier. Surely that couldn’t make much difference?

This was absolutely one of the best parts of the trip, to be able to glide down in peace and quiet, listening to the wind sing and process the experiences we’d had during the day.

That difference did indeed prove to be important. Sure, our group consisted of two ex mountain riflemen, the previously mentioned guide Pohl, the professional cyclist Lundberg and my friend Jonas who has done the Vasa Race on skis. So no small wonder I’d been lagging behind during the day. But to now be able to use my arms to push and help after having walked using crampons only proved to be a revolutionary change for my stamina and my body.

Once we’d descended to the skis we had a wonderful finish to the day skiing down in the light of the reddish afternoon sun. This was absolutely one of the best parts of the trip, to be able to glide down in peace and quiet, listening to the wind sing and process the experiences we’d had during the day. We came back to the mountain station before dark and I was so incredibly tired. Naive as I’d been, I’d been picturing how we’d celebrate by means of various beverages and sit in front of the fire in the lobby to talk about the day we’d had.

Instead we enjoyed an incredibly tasty and much-needed dinner without talking much at all. A quick visit to the shop where we all bought the t-shirt and then straight into the nicest bed in the world. Who would have guessed that title would go to a simple bunk bed?

Also read
  • 32

    A guide to the mountain flora of Swedish Lapland

    Are you curious of what kind of plants that grow in the harsh mountain climate? Ever wondered what that cute, white flower is called that you passed several times on your hike? Göran Wallin gives you a quick guide to the flora of the Swedish Lapland mountains.

    Göran Wallin
  • The top of Duolbagorni

    There are a lot of great climbing routes in the Kebnekaise massif. Pick a route based on knowledge and experience, or on what you feel like doing. One of the most well-known routes is the 'Silhouette' on Duolbagorni. A 1,000-metre wall. We'll choose a different route for today.

    Göran Wallin
  • Safe hiking in the mountains

    Hiking is multidimensional. It offers something for your mind, and your body. If you hike along the King’s Trail in northernmost Swedish Lapland, you’ll see some of the most beautiful things Sweden has to offer. But good people, remember to be safe. You are, after all, in the Arctic.

    Helena Hultbro