On lake Uddjaur in Arjeplog, is where you’ll find one of the coolest driving schools in the world: Lapland Ice Driving. How it came to be is a cold and actually quite a long story.
Eric Gallardo drives fast. The chicane on what’s a perfect copy of the formula-1 track Paul Ricard on the metre-thick ice of Lake Uddjaur comes up very quickly. Unlike Eric Gallardo’s own knuckles on the steering wheel of the Subaru WRX STI we’re in, my knuckles – gripping the door handle on the passenger side – are completely white. The entrance to the chicane is no problem. We go from 130 km/h down to 100 km/h and then, once he’s sorted out the speed, the gearbox and the four-wheel-drive oversteer, the speed increases again. At the end of the chicane we reach 120, and at the end of the straight, we hit 190 km/h before the next chicane. My hand is cramping around the door handle. I can imagine my face taking on the same pale colour as my knuckles, and Eric Gallardo keeps talking. I don’t know what’s wrong with this guy? I’ve got motor sickness. He’s got a motor mouth. This is speed.